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To the Bone, by Paul Liebrandt, Andrew Friedman
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What defines a chef?
Despite the glamour attached to the profession today, a successful life in the kitchen is determined more by sacrifice than stardom, demanding a dedication bordering on obsession, all in pursuit of The Food. In this meditation on the culinary life that blends elements of memoir and cookbook, Paul Liebrandt shares the story of his own struggle to become a chef and define his personal style.
To the Bone is Liebrandt’s exploration of his culinary roots and creative development. At fifteen, he began his foray into the restaurant world and soon found himself cooking in the finest dining temples of London, Paris, and ultimately, New York. Taking inspiration from the methods and menus of Marco Pierre White, Raymond Blanc, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and Pierre Gagnaire, Liebrandt dedicated himself to learning his craft for close to a decade. Then, at New York City’s Atlas, he announced himself as a worldclass talent, putting his hard-earned technique to the test with a startlingly personal cuisine. He continued to further his reputation at restaurants such as Gilt, Corton, and now the Elm, becoming known for a singular, graphic style that has captured the public’s imagination and earned him the respect of his peers.
Punctuated throughout with dishes that mark the stages of his personal and professional life, all of them captured in breathtaking color photography, this is Liebrandt’s literary tasting menu, a portrait of a chef putting it together and constantly pushing himself to challenge the way he, and we, think about the possibilities of food.
- Sales Rank: #122536 in Books
- Published on: 2013-12-03
- Released on: 2013-12-03
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.30" h x 1.01" w x 7.90" l, 1.25 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 288 pages
Review
“By any measure, Paul Liebrandt’s career in the kitchen has been a wild success. But it hasn't been a mad dash toward celebrity, as anyone who reads�To the Bone�will see. More than a collection of recipes, this impressive book is a coming-of-age story, a narrative that tells of a chef's often painstaking creative growth. Liebrandt spares us any phony glamour, focusing instead on the desire and commitment that restaurant work requires. That's a lot more real than anything you see on ‘reality’ TV.”
—Thomas Keller
�
“Ever since first learning about Paul's cooking while he was Atlas, I have followed him for his no-holds-barred risk-taking style of cooking. It takes a determined and self-confident person to eschew the standard conventions, and by doing so Paul has changed the way people view cooking and its possibilities.”
—Grant Achatz
“Paul is not a categorically ‘French,’ ‘American,’ or ‘British’ chef, but he has absorbed knowledge from three cultures . . . solidifying his reputation as a chef to be reckoned with through his passion and hard work. His food is more than art on the plate—it is an intricate extension of himself . . . and showcases the evolution of one of America’s most creative young chefs today."
—Daniel Boulud
�
“If you’ve ever wondered where the heck a modern chef gets his inspiration from, these pages will give you some idea of how it works. [This is] privileged access to one of the most innovative, skillful, and idiosyncratic chefs in America. . . . Dig in and enjoy.”
—from the foreword by Heston Blumenthal
About the Author
PAUL LIEBRANDT, the chef and co-owner of the Elm, is one of the superstars of the culinary world, having received two Michelin stars and three stars from the New York Times (at age twenty-four, the youngest chef to do so). He was the star of the Emmy-nominated HBO documentary A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt (winner of a James Beard Award for best documentary). He lives in New York.
ANDREW FRIEDMAN is the author of Knives at Dawn, about the Bocuse d’Or culinary competition, and the founder and chief contributor to the chef-focused website Toqueland.com. He is also the coeditor of the popular anthology Don’t Try This at Home, and has collaborated on more than twenty books with some of America’s finest and most well-known chefs, including Alfred Portale, Michelle Bernstein, Laurent Tourondel, and former White House chef Walter Scheib. He lives in Brooklyn, New York, with his family.
Excerpt. � Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
From the Introduction
From the time I was old enough to make decisions about such things, my life has been defined by The Food.
I write it that way because that’s how I think of it: as the object of an existential quest, to be pursued at the expense of just about anything else. In the name of The Food, at one time or another, I’ve worked for nothing in faraway lands where I didn’t speak the language, lived in meager and unsanitary quarters, commuted to and from work at times and in places that would make any mother fear for her son’s safety, and slept on a banquette or the floor in my own restaurant for days on end.
Why would I, or anyone, voluntarily do such things? It might be difficult for those not blessed and burdened by such attachments to understand, but at some level, cooking is an art that relies on the marriage of craft and inspiration. Craft is the easy part: anybody armed with the requisite aptitude and discipline can master the technical part of cooking, though it might take years. Inspiration, on the other hand, is like a demanding lover who flits in and out of your life as she pleases, insisting that you be available for her arrival and ready to act on a moment’s notice, lest the opportunity pass you by.
Then, of course, there’s the cruel joke perpetrated on chefs by the cosmos. It’s not enough to have one perfect idea; it must be realized dozens of times each day, at great expense, with most of the work carried out by people who don’t have the benefit of living in your head. There are no Emily Dickinsons in the cooking trade, no chefs who toil anonymously and independently in their family attics, leaving their work to future generations to discover and appreciate. On a daily basis, chefs need a well-equipped place in which to work, cooks to prepare our food, and guests to pay for the privilege of eating it. If you’ve ever wondered why so many chefs are known to terrorize their staffs, or behave like alcoholics after a night on the line, or burn out and fade away at tragically young ages, much of the answer can be found in the pressures created by that unholy trinity.
Does all of that sound unhealthy? It can be. But in my experience, the highs justify the lows. I discovered The Food as a painfully shy, unhappy boy, and it gave shape and meaning to my life. Hailing from a single-parent household, it offered me an alternate home in which to pass my days and nights. Without a specific ambition, it provided something to strive for; as a child never given to words, it gifted me with a vocabulary of flavors, colors, and textures with which to address and engage the world.
It also became the lens through which I see my life. Where some people have photo albums and journals, I have The Food. The ingredients and techniques I have worked with, and the way they come together in my dishes, are nothing less than snapshots of my life—not only of the kitchens in which I’ve worked and the influences I took from them, but also of where I was living and what I was thinking and feeling at any given time.
In these pages, I share a bit of my story, along with some dishes that mark the stops along the way—all with the hope that they might give a sense of what it’s like to become and to be a chef. I’m too young to consider this a memoir. And there are not enough recipes to qualify it as a cookbook. Think of it, then, as a literary tasting menu, a representation of one chef’s life so far, summed up—as all chefs inevitably are—by the dishes cooked and eaten along the way.
Most helpful customer reviews
15 of 19 people found the following review helpful.
art and science vs. cooking
By parisreader
I agree with those reviewers who have questioned the value of this book for people who hope to cook from it. It is primarily an exercise in autobiography, by a relatively young chef. This may be somewhat presumptuous but, thanks perhaps to his co-author, the writing is clear and engaging. Of the two chefs he dwells on, Marco Pierre White and Pierre Gagnaire, Liebrandt is much more indebted to the latter. Having eaten in the many incarnations of restaurants run by both of these chefs, I personally think this is a shame, because White was by far the greater chef. Liebrandt, following Gagnaire, has taken the path of the deconstructionist, experimental chefs (many of whom practice in the U. S.) rather than those who focus instead on achieving the most intense flavors with comparatively standard dishes. The result is plates that are studded with tiny morsels of a lot of different ingredients, drizzles of sauces, designer arrangements, unobtainable ingredients, cutting-edge professional equipment, etc. One commentator rightly asks how such dishes are even meant to be eaten. We don't have that problem with coq au vin, blanquette de veau, gratin dauphinois, salade fris�e, cr�me caramel, and an endless litany of foods that -- to me at least -- are far more mouthwatering than the sterile, self-conscious arrangements on display here. So, before you buy this tome, be sure that it is what you're looking for. It's primarily for reading, not cooking -- for the coffee table rather than the kitchen. The short recipes section is uniformly worthless for the home cook.
That said, I urge readers to be viewers and to watch the engrossing DVD, "A Matter of Taste," which also chronicles Liebrandt's career. While his egotism is evident as well in this film, it somehow becomes more charming than simply reading about it.
As for Liebrandt's actual cooking, I found it disappointing at his newest outlet, The Elm in Brooklyn. The night my wife and I were there, Liebrandt was certainly no hands-on chef. Instead he sat in a spare room, clearly visible through the translucent glass window, talking on the telephone for the better part of an hour. The food was uneven, with some combinations that worked and others that were merely odd. I have no need to go back, let alone to try to reproduce the cuisine with this non-functional cookbook.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Going his own way
By Amazon Customer
This book tells the story of Paul Liebrandt's early years in the kitchen, from his start as a 13-year-old dishwasher through running his own restaurants in New York City barely 15 years later. At 24, Liebrandt received 3 stars from the New York Times, the youngest chef ever to do so. In this book, he details his rise through the kitchen world and the stages of his culinary education. Rather than attend cooking school, Liebrandt headed straight for the kitchen of L'Escargot in London when he was 16. For the next 8 years, he would learn his craft, working in fine dining establishments in London and Paris such as Marco Pierre White, Vong, Pied a Terre, Le Manoir, and Pierre Gagnaire. Then he decided to try his fortune in New York, and soon found established himself as head chef at Atlas, where he was to earn the 3-star review from the New York Times. Circumstances soon pushed Liebrandt out from Atlas, however, and it would be several years before he was once again able to run his own kitchen in the big leagues of New York City. In this book, Liebrandt shares the stories of his youth, both in the kitchen and out, while describing who his culinary influences were and why. The book is amply illustrated with exquisite photographs of Liebrandt's culinary creations, and includes a short section of recipes at the back for some of these creations.
Liebrandt's creative approach to food is exhilarating to some and mysterious to others. Regardless of how you feel about Liebrandt's creations, it is fascinating to learn how he developed his unique skills and recipes. It is also refreshing to read a detailed account of a culinary education that does not include a formal cooking school. Overall, the prose is extremely well written, engaging and clear. And the photographs of Liebrant's dishes make this a book that you will return to again and again.
3 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Gorgeous
By M. Hyman
Paul Liebrandt is one of the world class amazing chefs. This book tells his life story, from his early childhood through his 2 star Michelin restaurant Corton (he's since left for another restaurant). The book is filled with amazing photographs and occasional recipes (none of which are for the faint of heart... they are superbly difficult). When you read it you want to eat it.
The challenge with the book is that it doesn't convey the sense of the chef the way the movie about him does. In the film, you see his focus, sense of humor, and humility, whereas in the book you get more of his life story and a strong sense of his passion, but it just lacks the emotional spark that is so warmly conveyed by the film. (Similarly, a book such as The French Laundry conveys more of Keller's personality). I wish the book could have achieved what the film did, but it is enjoyable to be able to learn more about him and how he learned.
As with other books I've read about chef's, it takes an amazing dedication as well as skill and creativity to get to the top, and Paul has that in spades.
Although the text is sometimes lacking in spirit, The photographs in the book and the descriptions of the dishes he creates, on the other hand, are over the top gorgeous. Whether or not you walk away from the book wanting to meet the chef, you will want to try his food.
Overall quite interesting and inspirational, although, as mentioned, I wish the book would have had a bit more of the spirit that you see in the film.
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